Though rarely at the forefront of the culinary conversation, Black and African diasporic restaurants have a long history in Vancouver. From informal speakeasies to the beloved Vie’s Chicken and Steak and the still-going-strong Juke, Black Vancouverites have made their mark on the culinary scene since the early 1900s.
For Alem Berhe, continuing this legacy is a family affair that’s about honouring his Northern Ethiopian roots. He and his wife Almaz Assefa own Axum, an Ethiopian restaurant located on Hastings Street in the heart of Strathcona. The extensive menu features everything from slow-cooked, melt-in-your mouth meats to hearty and aromatic vegan dishes.
“The main owner really is my wife,” Berhe says, chucking. “She makes sure everything is done properly and tastes [authentic]; she’s really the expert!”
The restaurant was established in 2008. At that time, finding East African spices such as barbare in Vancouver was next to impossible. The Berhes didn’t let that stop them, though. Instead, they decided to start importing the spices themselves so that they could make the cultural recipes they’d been missing.
Though he’s seen the city evolve and has noticed more Black owned-food businesses popping up in Vancouver, Berhe says that 15 years later, East African spices are still hard to come by here. It’s actually turned Axum into a resource for other local African restaurants and food businesses.
“We distribute to many other restaurants now,” Berhe says. “I don’t know where they’d get these spices and ingredients otherwise.”
Though born out of the systemic exclusion of African foods, it’s efforts like this that are helping keep Black and African diasporic restaurants alive in Vancouver. Many are now building community and are at the forefront of contemporary Afro-food innovation. Along with Axum, here are three must-try African restaurants in Vancouver.
Kilimanjaro Snack House
Take a break from the hustle and bustle of the city and embrace pole pole (slow living). At Kilimanjaro Snack House, things are best-experienced family-style, allowing you to share mogo (savory cassava chips), shami-breaded kebabs, and East African samosas.
The dishes are distinctly Swahili, with a delicious marriage of East African and South Asian flavours and incredibly authentic aromatic spices.
If you close your eyes, you can almost see giant coconut trees dancing in the wind and hear the turquoise waves of the Indian Ocean crashing onto white sand. When you snap back to reality, just make sure you don’t forget to finish your meal with chai and kulfi. (789 Kingsway)
Calabash Bistro
Enjoy the vibrant flavours of the Caribbean and dance your heart out at Calabash Bistro in Gastown. The menu features everything from usual Caribbean suspects like patties and oxtail, to regional fusion dishes like their jerk mussels, which are made with fresh, local mussels and white wine.
Co-founder Cullen David studied under Jean-Francis Quaglia (Provence Marinaside) and was then educated by the Indigenous Arawak people in the Guyanese Amazon about the origins of Caribbean cuisine. The flavours are complex and sophisticated, while simultaneously remaining un-intimidating and comforting. More than a restaurant, Calabash puts emphasis on fostering the Caribbean and African diasporic community. Traditional and contemporary cuisine is paired with live music, art, and late-night DJs. (428 Carrall Street)
Arike
This Michelin-recommended restaurant in the heart of the West End boasts an elegant dining atmosphere and tasting menu perfect for a special evening out. The contemporary Afro-fusion menu celebrates local and seasonal produce while honouring the flavors and spices of Nigeria and the African diaspora. Named after chef Sam Olayinka’s Nigerian grandmother, the food tells a story of the place between tradition and newfangled innovation.
The menu is always evolving, but recent highlights include pineapple with carpaccio and confit fennel with a jerk vinaigrette, and dry-aged sirloin with peppercorn, yogurt emulsion, and yassa (a West African onion and citrus marinade) bone jus. Arike’s beautiful plating, fresh ingredients, and stand-out natural wine menu will surely give you something to talk about—and, of course, keep you coming back for more. And more. (1725 Davie Street)
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